The flag that defined our ride and which we pinned on our motorcycles
It all started more than 8 years
ago for me, when a friend’s purchase of a Bullet motorcycle inspired me to go
for the plunge and get one for myself. Post that purchase, I made many small
rides and one ride of a 1,000 kms but more or less, that was it. The itch to go
on a real long ride was constantly there. About 3 months ago, my friend Deepak
Bhosle laid the groundwork for the Pune to Kanyakumari 1–way ride. He glorified
the ride, saying we would be riding along the coast, through forests with wild
tigers and elephants, via the beautiful Konkan belt, through the Nilgiri
mountains until we finally reach the ‘Triveni Sangam’, i.e. the point where the
V shape of India comes to an end and the Bay of Bengal, Arabian Sea and the
Indian Ocean meet. We roped in Parag Gujarathi as well and began our
preparations in earnest. Little did we know that Murphy as well as Sod, with
their respective laws, were waiting for us.
After a lot of planning wrt
routes, leave from office, pit stops, gear to be carried and Deepak’s expert tips
on how to avoid dehydration, we decided the dates, an 8-day period in
mid–August. It was bound to rain at that time and we carried enough rain gear
to stay dry in the Indian monsoons. Parag Gujarathi went ballistic over water
proof shoes and spent about 3 light years in various shoe shops before settling
on a pair. He even bought real sturdy rain pants (what if we had to ditch in
the sea being his unsaid reasoning), whose sturdiness gave way on Day 2. Read on for more of the adventures...
Day 1: Pune to Goa
While the committed ETD was 0530
hours, then 0600 hours and then 0630 hours, we finally set off at 0730 hours.
When my motorcycle started and I rode off, people cheered and waved to me. I
don’t know whether it was because they were finally getting to see my back or
because the motorcycle managed to kick start to life. Nevertheless, we were on
our way. And then… In the vernacular, it is called Sod’s law. About 30 minutes
into the ride, it happened.
Parag Gujarathi vanished from the
rear-view mirror. I and Deepak waited by the side of the road when another
fellow motorcyclist delivered the news to us that our fellow rider was
experiencing loss of air pressure in his rear tyre. We turned around and
managed to locate Parag, who was waiting at a puncture shop. We extricated a
large, rusted nail from the tyre and got the puncture fixed and then were on
our way. It was raining quite heavily, but thanks to our planning, our bodies
were hermetically sealed and well prepared for the harsh Antarctic weather,
should the need ever arise.
My helmet cam was a big hit with many
motorists, with a pretty damsel rolling down her car window and waving to me,
with me saluting back as a true gentleman 😊 However, we had gone about 250 kms when the
helmet cam mount came off. Thankfully, I noticed and managed to grab it before
it became a road kill.
We went via Amboli ghat route,
admiring the awesome greenery of the monsoons and stopped at Amboli waterfall,
where the rest of humanity seemed to have converge. A few pictures later, we
were on our way. And then… In the vernacular, you now know what it is called…
My motorcycle started showing
signs of loss of power. With torrential rains and the usual asshole drivers
thrown in, it was a potent combination. While the plan was to ride in the
daylight only, Murphy, with his law that if anything can go wrong, it will,
ensured that we managed to do only daylight riding on the last day. It got
quite dark by the time we reached our hotel and then, we all scrambled for a
bath as we were stinkier than anything you can imagine. Post that, we were fed
and watered handsomely and slept soundly, with Parag Gujarathi topping the
decibel meter.
Distance Covered: 465 kms
Highlight of the day: The pretty damsel waving to me from the car
Goa Hotel and the machines taking a well deserved rest
Day 2: Goa to Gokarna
Karwar Beach and the roads we were riding on
The morning started with a round
of baths and then breakfast, with our motto throughout the ride being – What do
you have for breakfast? Get two plates of everything for each of us.
Loaded the luggage on the
machines and started. About 20 kms into the ride, and then… In the vernacular,
you know what it is called. The difference this time was that it was a triple
strike.
Strike 1 – Parag Gujarathi’s
motorcycle’s chain cover broke and it started touching the chain.
Strike 2 – My motorcycle’s front
fork’s oil seal gave way, leading to fork oil spilling out.
Strike 3 – My motorcycle, showing
loss of power in progressively increasing magnitude, went dead in heavy
traffic, just before Panaji in Goa.
But, we had an ace up our
sleeves. We had taken spare parts with us and we also had spare spark plugs,
something that came in handy as we found a mechanic who replaced the spark
plugs and we were on our way again. By then, Parag Gujarathi’s rain pants had
torn off in a very neat fashion and this had ensured that he had wet underwear
(Alright, he never admitted but it was a dead giveaway). He again spent about 4
light years in different shops before settling on another rain pant (This one
would tear on Day 3).
Crossed over from Goa into
Karnataka without any fuss and then, were hit with a warning sign that read –
Leopard crossing area. Drive cautiously – This sign probably explained the lack
of state border personnel
Stopped for lunch at Karwar beach
and our motorcycles were an instant hit with the locals, with Parag Gujarathi
even being requested to pose for photographs. An uneventful ride later, we
reached our Gokarna hotel around 7 pm. Parag and Deepak hit the beach and the
locals promptly created a 100-metre no-go radius around them (tip: never smell
a motorcyclist who has not showered). I showered, washed my quick dry clothes
and hung them out to dry and then was headed towards the beach, when my keen
sense of smell made me aware of the approaching 100 metre no-go area. Took
prompt evasive action and avoided a near death experience.
With the other two bathed, we
were fed and watered handsomely by the pool side and slept soundly in the
night. Parag Gujarathi snored the loudest. I think that he would probably get a
royalty from Bose speakers company to understand how he produces better sound
than their speakers.
Distance covered: 180 kms
Highlight of the day: Deepak’s
motorcycle’s horn started imitating a feeble, wet fart
Views en route, Gokarna Beach and our hotel
Day 3: Gokarna to Bekal (Kasargod)
Vistas en route
The morning started with a walk
to the beach and coffee in a little shack on the beach with awesome views of a
temple on a hill and the Arabian Sea. Walked back to our resort and ordered the
usual for breakfast – Get two plates of everything for each one of us.
Fed and watered to a point where
moving from the chair seemed like a Herculean task, we somehow got ready,
loaded the machines and then decided to navigate the steep uphill climb from
the resort to the main road one by one, with a 5-minute gap between each rider.
Deepak and Parag went up and I was coming up last and then… In the vernacular…
My motorcycle went dead on about a 30-degree uphill incline with no one to help
me. Tried cajoling the old girl to kick start her into life but she refused to
budge. I believe that she wanted to remind me of my wife. And then, I did a
basic check and realized that I had left the fuel valve in off position.
Returned it to on position and the old girl whirred to life.
Met the other two motorcyclists
with me and then we started, with the hope that all would be good. Aal eej well
!!! being the motto we were aiming for.
We were doing a good 80 or 90
km/hr and then… In the vernacular, it is called Sod’s law. The oil from the
front fork on my motorcycle was seeping on to the front tyre, with the risk of
me skidding. Managed to locate an authorised service centre in Udupi and got it
repaired and lost about 3 hours’ worth of time but it was time and money well
spent.
Crossed over from Karnataka into
Kerala without much fuss. The traffic in Kerala is a different breed
altogether. The buses drive with the motto – Leave the road or die – Kept
riding and it was dark when we took a pit stop. A lone motorcyclist approached
us and asked whether he can join us for as long as we are going because he was
riding solo and it was dangerous. We said alright and he tagged along. Reached
the hotel, bid adieu to the solo rider and then showered. Fed and watered
handsomely, we crashed for the day.
Distance covered: 320 kms
Highlight of the day: Rode
through Marwante, where the Arabian sea is on one side and a fresh water river
is on the other, with the road going between then.
Mini highlight of the day: My own
motorcycle’s horn started imitating a feeble wet fart.
Vistas en route and our hotel in Bekal
Day 4: Bekal (Kasargod) to Ooty
Notice the Elephant warning sign?
After the usual round of – Get
two plates of everything for each one of us – we loaded the motorcycles and
then were on our way. The planned destination was Coonoor. Crossed into Tamil
Nadu and then I noticed that my speedo was not working. By then I had had
enough and decided to let it be and just ride on. Stopped at a real tiny forest
shack run by a mother-daughter who spoke nothing but Tamil. Thankfully, I know
a little and we ate fat rice and sambar and started riding again.
We had to go
along the periphery of the Mudumalai Wildlife sanctuary, which houses wild
elephants. By the time we reached the forest, it was dusk and a shopkeeper told
us casually that elephants would be on the road up ahead and that there would
be as good as no traffic at this time and ride carefully. All of us secretly
did an underwear check to ensure that it was still clean and then hit the road.
Crossed the forest department checkpost and promptly started getting warning
signs saying – Elephant crossing area – All of us had the creeps but rode on.
It was extremely dark and raining when we reached Ooty. Coonoor was a further
20 kms away when all of us decided that we cannot make it there. Found a hotel,
showered, ate and crashed. Tomorrow, we ride right through the middle of tiger
country.
Distance Covered: 290 kms
Highlight of the day: The yellow
warning signs warning of elephants
Day 5: Ooty to Munnar
Riding through tiger country (Anamalai Tiger Reserve)
Breakfast was not included in our
room rate and the hotel did not have a restaurant on site. So, we started after
having coffee and then stopped at a very shady shack after the ghats to eat. I
had one aloo vada and, I was to realize later how grateful I was that I did not
order the usual two plates of everything.
All seemed good till we entered
Anamalai tiger reserve. This has about 34 tigers (as per Wikipedia) and the
‘helpful’ locals at the check post told us that tigers do come on the road but
that they are not man eaters. We thanked them from the bottom of our hearts,
did a double take on our underwear and entered the forest. Single track road.
Not even a single hut. Hardly any vehicles on the road. And then, one of us had
the urge to do su-su. We stopped and did our thing and then opened a pack of
biscuits right there and gobbled it. Then, all of us got the creeps that
anything can come out of the trees and started riding. At the forest department
check post between Tamil Nadu and Kerala, stopped to eat some Idli and
purchased wild honey (On the last day of the ride, my bottle broke in the
saddlebag. Yes, don’t ask about it). Saw an awesome waterfall in the forest and
the forest guards said they can take us into the forest on a 3-hour trek and we
can see tigers. Wanted to do that but no time. Next time perhaps.
Stopped by a waterfall and took
photos and videos and spent close to an hour there, something that would haunt
us later in the day. Reached Munnar and then our hotel was about 20 kms farther
out. Heave rainfall and fog reduced visibility to under 5 metres. Couple that
with mountain roads and it was very risky. Just the three of us on the tiny
roads and absolute darkness on either side. Our motorcycles’ lights were the
only lights on the road. Google maps kept taking us in circlesAfter about 90
minutes of searching, finally located the hotel. Had we not spent that much
time taking photos, we could have avoided being in that position. Showered, fed
and watered, we all slept soundly. This was the longest day of the ride so far.
Distance covered: 280 kms
Highlight of the day: Ride
through Anamalai Tiger reserve
Vistas en route
Munnar Hotel
Day 6: Munnar to Kanyakumari
Usual routine with a twist. We
sat in the restaurant which was almost covered in mist and had breakfast (yes,
the usual of two plates of everything). Took a stroll around the resort. Very
scenic with fog and dense forest and tree houses. Lazed in the bed till about
10 am and then got ready and loaded motorcycles and we were off. Descended the
Nilgiris and hit the plains of Tamil Nadu. Road was awesome and for once, Sod
and Murphy left us alone. We went via Tirunelveli. Awesome road and we managed
to maintain sustained good speed. Reached Kanyakumari around 8 pm and then
Google Maps promptly took us for a spin. I fed our hotel name and obeyed the
directions until we came at a desolate spot where an under-construction bridge
stood and Google Maps promptly announced – You have arrived – I was thinking of
how to get a tent setup there when we took matters of navigation in our own
hands, asked the locals and managed to locate our pit stop at Vivekananda
Kendra.
By the time we were showered, it
was quite late. Managed to find one hotel that served us food. We wanted to
head to Triveni Sangam but were advised against it by the hotel proprietor. Went back to Vivekananda Kendra and crashed for the day.
Distance Covered: 360 kms
Highlight of the trip: The under construction bridge where Google maps was urging us to setup camp for the night
Vistas en route and our cottage in Vivekananda Kendra
Day 7: Kanyakumari to Trivandrum
Woke up real early around 5 am and went to Triveni Sangam to watch
sunrise. Got some awesome photos of the Vivekananda Rock Memorial. Had awesome
dosa at Sarvana Bhavan. Checked out and kept our luggage at a cloak room and
headed to see Vivekananda Rock Memorial. Unfortunately, the sea was too rough
and the ferry service was temporarily suspended. So, went and saw the light
house instead. Got a guided tour from a very helpful gentleman who worked
there. Had lunch at Sarvana Bhavan and then set off for the final port of
departure, Trivandrum.
Rode along the coast with sea
views fracturing through the coconut plantations occasionally. Reached GATI
office and booked the motorcycles to be taken by truck to Pune. Checked into
the hotel, where we had to take a boat across the backwaters to reach the room. Ate at the sea side
restaurant, with the sounds of the breaking waves as a companion. And then…
zzzzz
Next day, went to a friend’s father’s house
nearby and he took us to get some local delicacies. Fed and watered extremely
handsomely by them. Took a flight back to Pune later in the day.
Trivandrum Hotel
Distance Covered: 100 kms
Highlight of the trip: Awesome,
homemade authentic south Indian food
Riding Tips:
1. Wear
boxer shorts if you don’t want your skin and your frenchies to ‘bond’ together
and make their presence felt each time you move a millimetre
2. Anything
can dehydrate you (ask Deepak about it). So, drink lots of water
3. Carry
as little baggage as possible. Quick dry shirts are best as you can wash them
in the night and they dry out by morning
4. Ride
with fellow riders whom you know well and whose riding styles / philosophy
matches yours. In-ride breakups are not uncommon.
5. And
last, but not the least, enjoy the ride. You will cherish these memories
forever.
Excellent. Well documented. Keep riding and enjoy life!
ReplyDeleteOwesome blog.. and seems a lifetime achievement..
ReplyDeleteThanks!!
DeleteSeems like Royal Enfield is not that dependable for longer rides.... you guys had too many breakdowns to start with
ReplyDeleteNaah...mechanics are not dependable...ideally spark plug cleaning is covered in basic maintenance...but mechanics don't do it!!
DeleteNevertheless you guys seemed to have lot of fun.....well documented.... would love to see some video snippets from your helmet cam
ReplyDeleteInteresting read and nicely documented. A memorable event for all 3 of you.
ReplyDeleteGreat trip and nicely written. Makes me want to do it but have to start from learning how to ride bikes first. Btw, what is wet fart? ��
ReplyDeleteSanjeev moghe
Wow great....
ReplyDeleteIt refreshes my memories of our Rajasthan trip on bike which is 3500 kms.
Wow great. Very nice photography as well.Well done really appreciated.
ReplyDelete